USA and Canada
In 1763, after the British had defeated the French to take control of what is today Canada they ceded a small archipelago of islands off the Newfoundland coast to France. Today St Pierre et Miquelon remains a little piece of France in North America. It is a self-governing overseas territory of 7,000 people. The currency is the euro, the language is French and the baguettes are authentic. I'd always wanted to visit since I learned about it as a boy. Here is my pilmgrimage to St Pierre et Miquelon.
We had a hire car booked for a week starting and ending in Vancouver, and we’d both always wanted to see the Canadian Rockies, so it was a no-brainer as to where we were going to head when we arrived on Canada’s west coast. The only problem being that it was the first week of April, and the ski season was in full flight so snow and ice were potentially going to be a problem.
But, we decided to give it a crack and see if we could reach some of the major attractions such as Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper.
So, you’ve only got one day in Seattle. It’s definitely not enough, but if that’s the predicament you find yourself in, here’s a plan for how to make the most of your one day.
The Alaskan Maritime Highway (AMH) is a system of ferries that connect 14 coastal towns on the Alaskan Panhandle (SE Alaska) with each other and the rest of the US via the port of Bellingham just north of Seattle, Washington. The ferries carry cars and pedestrian passengers.
We wanted to see this part of Alaska and decided to use the AMH ferries to get around. These are cheaper than cruises and they run all year around, while the cruises don’t. We did the trip in March 2017. Here's what happened.
A long held ambition of Cally's was to see "The Lights" of the Polar Regions, either Southern (Aurora Australis) or Northern (Aurora Borealis). With no luck over the years with seeing the Southern Lights we went in search of their northern counterparts in Alaska. Here's how we went.
This post covers a road trip we did over four days in early March 2017 from Portland, Oregon to San Francisco, California down the Pacific coast.
We’d spent a lot of time recently on interstate highways travelling across the country, so we wanted slow it down and cruise down the coast.
We spent a spectacular day touring Yellowstone National Park in a snowcoach in winter. It was a blast. See for yourself.
Many of us have heard of the Badlands but what are they and where are they? Well, they’re in the western part of South Dakota near the Wyoming border. The name maco sica (badland) was originally given by Native Americans due to the strangeness of the landscape with it’s weird spires, mounds and walls. What we had read sounded interesting so we decided to check it out and to see what else was in the area.
First time in New York? Not sure what to choose from the huge range possibilities for things to do and places to visit? And you’ve only got three days.
Here's how we tackled this challenge.
No, this isn’t about our trip to the shops to get supplies for a weekend barbeque and a new pair of shoes. It’s about The National Mall in Washington DC– the 2 mile/3.2 km strip which has the majority of Washington’s iconic tourist attractions.
We had one full day in Washington and wanted to see as much as possible so the only practical thing to do was hit the Mall. At one end is the Lincoln Memorial and at the opposite end is the Capitol, the USA’s parliament. And in between is a cavalcade of possibilities – museums, war memorials, art galleries and more. Here's how we spent our day.
Whether you call it N’Awlins, Nola or it’s official name, New Orleans, there’s no doubt that this is one of the US’s most interesting cities in a fascinating, unique state – Louisiana.
As folks new to New Orleans and Louisiana we were on a steep learning curve about the local culture, traditions and possibilities when we spent a few days there in February 2017. Here a few suggestions for things to do if you too are a novice visitor.
This post covers a road trip we did in late January, early February 2017 from Los Angeles, California to Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico, across six states, where we visited nine national parks and reserves, including classics such as Death Valley, Grand Canyon and Monument Valley.
We weren’t sure if doing the trip in winter would present a problem – would we have trouble with snow blocked roads, would the parks we wanted to visit be open in January? Here is how we approached the challenge.
Mexico and Central America
Maybe it’s just us, but we’d never heard of Guanajuato until recently. But having read that it was one of Mexico’s most picturesque towns, and it lay on our route from Mexico City to the country’s second biggest city, Guadalajara, we decided to check it out. As things transpired it turned out to be one of the most visually attractive and interesting colonial towns we’d visited in Latin America.
Tikal, the ancient Mayan city in Northern Guatemala is probably only surpassed by Chichen Itza on the “must see” list of Mayan archaeological sites. But how does it stack up against Monte Alban, the significant site of their neighbours, the Zapotecs of Southern Mexico? Here's what we thought.
We took a day trip from the small Guatemalan town of Lanquin to the nearby limestone caves and amazing natural pools of Semuc Champey. The day consisted of an awesome river cave experience, tubing down the river with beers in hand (provided mid stream by some enterprising locals), a hike to an impressive vantage point overlooking Semuc, and a well earned dip in the pools to finish the day. All in all one of our best days ever in Central America.
When we booked several nights’ accommodation in Oaxaca, Mexico for the Christmas period we were blissfully unaware that our arrival day, 23 December is one of the city’s biggest nights – the Noche de los Rábanos or Night of the Radishes. Every year on the night of 23 December displays of intricately carved giant radishes are displayed in the Zocalo (Central Plaza). Here's what we saw.
This post describes our trip from Punta Gorda in Southern Belize, via Livingston and Rio Dulce(Sweet River) in Guatemala to Copan Ruinas in Honduras. We had trouble getting clear, accurate information on transport options for some of this trip so thought it was worth retelling our experience here.
long the way we take a series of boat, bus and colectivos (small minivan collective taxis) to finally get to our destination, Copan Ruinas, Honduras's most important Mayan Archaeological site.
In 1982 I visited Belize with my mate Muz Paddison and we spent some idyllic days on the small island of Caye Caulker, just off the coast of Belize City. There were few travellers and little in the way of tourist amenity and infrastructure back then. It really felt like an unknown tropical paradise.
Fast forward 35 years and things are very different now. Tourism is Belize's number one industry and Caye Caulker is in the frontline. Needless to say the Caye Caulker of 2016 is almost unrecognizable from that of 1982. Here's what we found.
Lamanai is a Mayan archaeological site in Northern Belize. It was occupied for over three thousand years from 1500 BC until the 19th Century AD. A boat trip up the New River from Orange Walk Town is the preferred method for accessing Lamanai, which is what we chose to do. There are only a small number of temples and other buildongs that can be visited as most of the 700 plus strutures remain buried under thick jungle. Nevertheless we found Lamanai an excellent choice for a day trip.
The Mayan civilization flourished for over 2,000 years from the appearance of the first Mayan cities around 750BC to the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century. Their legacy is vast and impressive. There is no better place to see it than the Mexican Yucatan. This post covers four of the most famous sites in the Yucatan, including Chichen Itza.
Lake Atitlan is a spectacular, volcano rimmed lake in the Guatemalan Highlands. Two Mayan peoples, the Kaqchiquel and Tz'utujil, live around the lake and their colourful traditional costumes, which are worn all the time, are one of the aspects that gives Lake Atitlan a special feel. We had a wonderful short visit to the lake which included a day trip to two villages. Here'e what happened.
Antigua, a former colonial capital of Guatemala, is the country's most visited tourist destination. It is surrounded by three towering volcanoes, each over 3700 metres. It has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site due to it's magnificent churches and other colonial buildings, some restored and others in splendid collapse due to the many earthquakes which have impacted it over the centuries. Join us on a walking tour of this fascinating city.
Cuba
Karst mountains, caves, tobacco farms, and horse riding - rural Vinales is very different from the other places we've visited on our Cuban trip. Here is our 4th and final postcard from Cuba.
This Postcard from Cienfuegos, Cuba's third biggest city, known as the Pearl of the South, features some of our favourite images of this laid back town.
This Postcard from Havana features our favourite images from one of the World's most fascinating and engaging cities.
Much is written about Cuba nowadays as it is such a popular destination. The aim of this post is not to repeat what can be found elsewhere. What we have aimed for here is two things: (1) Our immediate impressions of Cuba having just spent 2 weeks in the country and (2) A few tips that we either found useful before we went or wished we'd known beforehand that might help to make your trip a little easier
Caribbean
In 2016 we island hopped through the Caribbean. We started in the south, in the Dutch islands of Aruba and Curaçao and finished three months later in the north, in Jamaica and Cuba. In total we visited twenty one states and territories.
At this time, when COVID -19 still makes international travel virtually impossible, we’ve decided to revisit this trip via producing some posts with our favourite shots. We’ve divided this project into three parts: Southern Caribbean; Central Caribbean and Northern Caribbean. Here we present the Northern Caribbean. We hope you find it interesting.
In 2016 we island hopped through the Caribbean. We started in the south, in the Dutch islands of Aruba and Curaçao and finished three months later in the north, in Jamaica and Cuba. In total we visited twenty one states and territories.
At this time, when COVID -19 still makes international travel virtually impossible, we’ve decided to revisit this trip via producing some posts with our favourite shots. We’ve divided this project into three parts: Southern Caribbean; Central Caribbean and Northern Caribbean. Here we present the Central Caribbean. We hope you find it interesting.
In 2016 we island hopped through the Caribbean. We started in the south, in the Dutch islands of Aruba and Curaçao and finished three months later in the north, in Jamaica and Cuba. In total we visited twenty one states and territories.
At this time, when COVID -19 still makes international travel virtually impossible, we’ve decided to revisit this trip via producing some posts with our favourite shots. We’ve divided this project into three parts: Southern Caribbean; Central Caribbean and Northern Caribbean. Here we present the Southern Caribbean. We hope you find it interesting.
We travelled for nearly 3 months island hopping through the Caribbean and attempted to live on what we consider to be a mid-range budget i.e. $AUS300/$US230 per day for the two of us. That's all inclusive – transport, accommodation, meals and activities. Here's what we learned from our trip.
Reggae, rastafarians, rum and resorts. That's what comes to mind for most people when you mention Jamaica. We had a stay of just over a week and found that all these things were present, but we also found the Jamaican people to be some of the friendliest and most welcoming we've ever met. If you have limited time and want a couple of ideas for things to do here are 5 activities that are done out of the three biggest towns: Kingston, Ocho Rios and Montego Bay.
Parque Nacional Los Haitieses is a 1375 sq. km park in the NE of the Dominican Republic. The park's northern border is the Bahia de Samana which opens to the Atlantic. Small limestone karst mountains, 30 – 50m high fringe much of the coast. It's an unusual place that we were keen to visit. So we took a day trip to the park, which wasn't quite what we'd hoped for. Here's what happened.
To North Americans Puerto Rico is their backyard. It has the busiest cruise port in the Caribbean in San Juan, the capital. Puerto Rico (PR) receives over 2 million visitors a year. But to Australians it is the other side of the world, it is somewhere we hear little about and so it is high on our “exotic places to visit” list.
Knowing that it is such a popular tourist destination meant that we approached our visit with some concern that it might be 'too popular' to the point of tackiness, but we needn’t have worried. We spent a week in PR splitting our time between the two biggest cities, San Juan and Ponce and both were well worth taking the time to visit. Here's what we found.
Both the British and US Virgin Islands are popular holiday destinations with people from north America and Europe and they have a reputation for being expensive for accommodation. But you can find mid-range guesthouses and hotels on both sets of islands and you can visit the classic, but pricey destinations such as Virgin Gorda and St John, as day trips from the less exotic capitals of Road Town and Charlotte Amarlie. Here are four great days out that we had in the Virgin Islands.
The island of Saint Martin/Sint Maarten is written this way, with two names, because it is an island shared by two cultures, two nations, France and the Netherlands. Each half of the island has a quite different feel to the other. The Dutch half is resort central, where big is beautiful, while the French section is much more low key and laid back. Both sides have their charms and so are worth a visit. Here is a bit about our time with each.
Quiz question: What's the highest point in the Netherlands. Answer: Mt Scenery on the island of Saba in the Dutch Antillies.
Describe Saba: tropical rainforest full of bird and other wildlife, steep dramatic peaks, quaint red and white uniformed towns, and the highest peak in the Netherlands. We decided to check out Saba for ourselves. Here's what we found.
After some extensive island hopping over the previous couple of months we decided to “lime” (Caribbean slang for taking it easy, just hanging out) for a few days in SKN.
We did not do the St Kitts scenic steam train trip or visit the impressive Brimstone Hill Fortress (built by the British in the 17th century). No zip lining took place and hiking did not occur on either island, despite the dramatic tropical backdrops of Mt Liamuiga (St Kitts) and Nevis Peak (Nevis).
So what did we do? Here are a few snippets from our SKN liming.
In 1995 the Soufriere Hills volcano on the island of Montserrat began a series of eruptions that rained volcanic dust, lava and gases on the capital Plymouth. The town was evacuated and the continuing activity of the volcano over subsequent years gradually buried much of the town and put paid to any possibility that the people could return. To this day Plymouth remains as a modern day Pompeii in the Caribbean. We were fortunate to visit the island and see for ourselves. This is what we learned.
We had a short 4 day stopover in the small Caribbean island nation of Antigua (pronounced An-tiga) and decided to spend our time in one place rather than race around the island like maniacs trying to see it all in such a short time. We chose English Harbour in the south of Antigua. Here are a few ideas of things to do there.
There are no big resorts on Dominica, black volcanic sand beaches take the place of the usual white, and there are no direct flights to North America or Europe. But what you do have is nature in abundance, incredible rainforests, volcanic sulphur springs, monumental waterfalls, the Caribbean's last community of it's original Carib Indian inhabitants, and some of the friendliest people you're ever likely to meet.
If you make the effort to go to Dominica you won't regret it.
A short stopover in Martinique with some persistent rain for part of it meant limited opportunities to explore the island. But we made the most of our stay on this little bit of France with the best bread, wine and cheese anywhere in the Caribbean, and some good beaches. Tres bon.
St Lucia is a small, tropical Caribbean Island in the Windward Islands group. It owes it's existence to it's volcanic past (and present). It's many rugged peaks are covered in lush green vegetation and it's coastline has a multitude of fantastic beaches. But more than anything else we enjoyed the friemndly and welcoming attitude and approach of the locals we met during our short stay. Here is a bit about our experience.
St Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) is a small Caribbean island nation to the north of Grenada and south of St Lucia in the Windward Islands. It is made up of St Vincent in the north, the largest island and a number of smaller Grenadines stretching to the south. The five main ones are Bequia (pronounced Bek-way), Mustique (playground of the rich and famous), Canouan, Mayreau and Union.
We visited Union, Bequia and St Vincent, but by far our favourite spot was Bequia. Here is our postcard from Bequia.
Through long, cold Tasmanian winters fantasies of tropical islands are commonplace. There is generally no specific place in mind – it's the image that's important. Long, white sand beaches and clean, calm water; palm, mango and banana trees, and lots of other lush greenery; cold beers, fresh seafood, Caribbean music (reggae will do) and plenty of friendly locals. But most of all warmth, lots of warm weather (with a gentle sea breeze).
Well, it turns out that this anonymous tropical fantasy has a name, and it's name is Grenada. If you're lucky enough to go there here are some possibilities for things to do.
Post includes section at the end: How to get from Grenada (Carriacou) to St Vincent and the Grenadines (Union Is) on a budget.
Barbados, in the Windward Islands of the SE Caribbean, is a popular holiday destination with people from the US and Europe, particularly the UK. Many people come for a couple of weeks and see little outside of their resort and the strip of beach in front of it.
And while it does have great beaches there is a lot more to Barbados including a fascinating history, great botanical gardens, cricket and music loving locals, and good food and drink.
Here are five possibilities of things to do when visiting Barbados.
Aruba and Curaçao, previously part of the Dutch Antilles, but now independent within the Kingdom of the Netherlands, are islands very different in history, culture and landscape to other Caribbean destinations. Their proximity to South America and historical links provide a Latin feel, but their Dutch Colonial past is also prominent and very apparent in the architecture of Willemstad, Curaçao's capital. Both have stunning beaches and iridescently blue water. They make for a very interesting visit.
South America
We’ve taken two trips to South America. The first was in 2007/08 for 8 weeks with our then teenage sons, Alex and Zac. Cally and I returned in 2016 to fill in some of the gaps left after our first trip. This time we spent four and a half months visiting Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Ecuador, and Columbia. It was a fabulous experience. In this post we’ve chosen our favourite photos from our two trips. We hope you like them.
For decades Colombia has been known for drug cartels and civil war, but in recent years the security situation has dramatically improved and tourists are starting to arrive. We think that Colombia will become the next big thing in South American tourism over the next decade. We spent two weeks there and got a small taste of some of what Colombia has to offer.
We arrived in Ecuador less than 24 hours after the April 2016 earthquake which devastated much of the NW and coastal regions of Ecuador. We were initially unsure as to what to do. But once we received information locally it was clear that the Highland areas of the country were unaffected. We decided to continue with our plans to travel the Ecuadorian Highlands. Here is our experience.
In Best Of Brazil - Part 1 we visited the south of the country - Florianopolis, Curitiba and the state of Minas Gerais, which lies between Belo Horizonte and Rio de Janiero.
In Part 2 we start in Rio, head north to Salvador and finish our Brazilian trip in the Amazonian city of Manaus. Here's what happened.
We spent a month in Brazil. This was our second visit but we still felt that we'd barely scratched the surface of this fabulous country. Nevertheless, we were very happy with the choices we made and the places we visited. Here is Part 1 of our Best of Brazil.
Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina is a 1520 square km national park 400 kms to the west of the city of Salvador in Bahia state. It is famous for it's spectacular mountains, stunning waterfalls, limestone caves and thick forest. It attracts many Brazilian and international travellers who come to trek in the park.
We had 3 days/4 nights there and got a brief but very worthwhile taste of Chapada Diamantina. Here is a post about our trip there.
The Brazilian state of Minas Gerais lies between Belo Horizonte and Rio de Janiero. It is one of Brazil's most historically significant regions. Gold was discovered there in 1693 and this was followed by gem and diamond finds.
It's colonial legacy is still very accessible through towns such as Ouro Preto and Tiradentes. Some of Brazil's most impressive artworks are to be found in the region, particulalrly in it's historical churches. We were keen to visit the state and so we hired a car for the trip from Belo to Rio. Here is what we found.
In the past Uruguay has generally not featured on many South American travellers' itineraries, particularly those with limited time where the focus tends to be on the continent's big attractions, such as Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, Rio, and Patagonia. But that is changing. Lonely Planet ranked it #8 in countries to visit in 2016 and tourists are increasingly discovering that Uruguay has a lot to offer. We spent two and a half weeks travelling from the North West of the country to the South East border with Brazil. Here is a bit about our experience.
Argentinian Patagonia is a big place. It starts in the north around the pretty city of San Carlos de Bariloche and extends down to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego at the southern tip of South America and from the Andes to the Atlantic. It is a region that you can spend weeks, even months exploring.
With our more limited time we decided to focus on 3 of Patagonia's main attractions: El Calafate and the Perito Moreno Glacier; El Chalten and it's mountains, particularly Cerro Fitz Roy; and Bariloche and surrounds. Here's a bit about our experience.
A lot of older travellers assume that to visit Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia, particularly if you wish to do the world famous 'W' Walk, that you need to go in an organised group.
But we found that with a bit of planning you can successfully do the walk, travel at your own pace and save some money along the way. Here's our experience over 6 days in Torres del Paine.
We took a 2 week road trip from the capital Santiago to the port city of Puerto Montt 1,000kms to the south. Snow capped volcanoes, vast azure lakes, and great food and wine were just some of the highlights.
Santiago is an interesting and modern city with plenty to do. Here are 10 possibilities that won't cost a fortune.
Africa
In September 2018 Ken’s brother Brett and sister-in-law Linda visited the stunningly beautiful Moroccan Blue City of Chefchaouen - somewhere to definitely add to your travel “to do” list once international travel is possible in a post-coronavirus world. Here is Brett’s report on their trip to “Chef”.
For over 20 years I'd dreamed of visiting the obscure, tiny African nation of São Tomé and Principé. In 2011 the chance finally came, but missed flights and an overly officious immigration offical almost prevented it. Here's the story of what happened.
Many still think of Ethiopia as the old stereotype of famine and despair. The current reality is that it is a fascinating country with a rich history and a proud people.
A visit to a local village on Lake Togo where voodoo is traditionally practised turns out to be a highlight of our trip to Africa.
Dramatic landscapes with colossal sand dunes and one of the world's largest canyons; great wildlife viewing; wild seascapes and an interesting colonial past - Namibia has plenty to see and do.
Europe
In September 2024 we spent three weeks travelling around Georgia, a country we’d been wanting to visit for some time. What did we know about Georgia before going there? We knew that Georgia is a small country sitting to the south of the Caucasus Mountains; that it had a history of winemaking going back thousands of years; that it was one of the first nations to declare Christianity as the state religion; and that it had been invaded many times by its much larger neighbours. But the Georgian people and their culture and traditions had remained resilient. We wanted to know more. Here’s what we found.
Baku, Azerbaijan’s capital, is a city of 2.3 million, which sits on the Caspian Sea. In Baku towering, eye-catching 21st century skyscrapers provide a radically contrasting backdrop to medieval alleyways and ancient fortifications. Sounds interesting? We thought so too, so we arranged to spend a few days there to see it for ourselves.
Dodgy Knees recently published a post from Ken’s brother Brett and wife Linda on their trip in 2018 to Chefchaouen – Morocco’s Blue City. On the same trip they also visited the island of Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands. Despite its reputation as a tourist hotspot they found it to be remarkably uncrowded and relaxing. Definitely recommended. Here is their report.
In April 2013 we did a three week road trip around the Iberian Peninsula - Spain and Portugal. Starting in Madrid we did a clockwise circuit including Cordoba, Grenada, Seville, Lisbon, Porto, San Sebastian, and Barcelona.
Three weeks was barely enough time to scratch the surface. We loved every minute and vowed to return one day. In the spirit of nostalgia here are some of our favourite images from that trip.
The Greek island of Ikaria sits in the northern Aegean Sea close to the Turkish coast. It doesn’t have the profile of a Santorini, Mykonos or a Crete. The advantage of this, for travellers who venture there, is that it doesn’t have the big tourist numbers of its better-known brethren.
We spent a few very enjoyable days there in June 2017 with our friends Ron and Ellen, who were holidaying on the island. We knew nothing about Ikaria before we went, but discovered a wonderful destination full of great locations and experiences. If you get a chance to visit, here are a few possibilities to put on your list.
This post describes a road trip we did traveling through the Western Balkans, that is the region that sits on the Eastern Adriatic and Ionian Seas. We started in Dubrovnik, Croatia, and moved south through Montenegro and Albania before arriving on the Greek island of Corfu. The trip took two weeks and was made in glorious late Mediterranean spring sunshine, with temperatures from the mid 20’s to the low 30’s.
This pictorial post consists of some of our favourite shots taken while travelling around Italy during late May and early June 2017. On the trip we visited Trieste, Florence, Rome (chiefly the Vatican), Syracuse in Sicily and Naples (including Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast).
The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) is a walking trail that runs along the monumental cliffs of the Amalfi Coast in Italy. It is 6 kilometres of some of the most spectacular coastal scenery you’re likely to see anywhere in the world.
We were keen to do the walk, which takes 2 – 3 hours, and to do it as a day trip from Naples where we were based. This post describes how we went about it and some comments on the walk.
This was our first visit to Malta. Ken’s dad, Don had moved there two years ago so our main motivation for the trip was to see him. We had just four days there but learned a lot about this small and fascinating island nation in that time. It has a very complex and interesting history along with a few quirky features that make it like no other Mediterranean destination.
Here are ten things we learned during our stay that helped to make it so enjoyable.
How can you be in Italy, yet not be in Italy? OK, so smarty pants people will immediately say “the Vatican”, and yes they are correct. But what about another country? What about tiny San Marino, embedded in the north east of Italy? It's full title is "The Most Serene Republic of San Marino". At only 61 square kms it’s one of Europe’s smallest nations. We felt that we just had to pay it a visit.
Slovenia is a small, fascinating and beautiful country in south east Europe. It has rugged mountains, a tiny Mediterranean coast, and spectacular lakes, and throughout its landscape are scenic and historic towns and villages. We spent some very full and rewarding days visiting some old friends who showed us around their interesting and friendly country.
This post covers a trip from Amsterdam to Salzburg in Austria through some iconic European cities and a couple of less well known places. The post is largely images, many of which will be familiar, such as the canals of Amsterdam, architecture of Bruges and mountains and castle of Salzburg.
Oslo, the capital of Norway, is an interesting and attractive city. There is Viking history, world famous art, ancient castles, and excellent parks, just to name a few possibilities. But Oslo can be an expensive city, one of the costliest to visit in Europe. While you won’t get by without spending any money, here are five things to do in Oslo that are affordable for most people and represent some of Oslo’s main attractions.
We were surprised to stumble across a connection between an 900 year old castle in Ireland and our home of Tasmania that we'd never heard of before.
Whoops. We find ourselves in the town of Ales in Southern France and not Arles with it's famous Roman ruins as planned. But we decided to make the best of it. Here's what happened.
A self drive circuit of Iceland took us through dramatic landscapes made by fire and ice. Glaciers, volcanoes, geysers, waterfalls, abundant wildlife and hardy locals. Its a fascinating country.
We’d always assumed that Greenland was one of those places that you could only easily visit as part of an organised tour, and that independent travel was either not possible or at best very expensive. Not so, on both accounts.
In the south west corner of Poland, close to the borders with Germany and the Czech Republic is the town of Zagan, the home of Luft Stalag 3, the stalag from where the Great Escape took place.
Asia
If Taiwan is mentioned in the news, it’s usually with reference to the question: “when will China invade?” But meanwhile, as the world waits to find the answer to this, 22 million people are getting on with living their lives on a green, mountainous island.
So, what is Taiwan like? Is it a good place to visit? Is there much to see and do? We wanted to find out for ourselves. Unfortunately, we only had one week, so we decided to split our time between three cities: Taipei, the capital; Hualien on the east coast; and Kaoshiung in the south-west. Here’s how we spent our week.
During a recent trip to Japan a few simple things made the travel experience a little easier and a little more enjoyable. There are many travel blog posts and vlogs which provide useful travel tips for Japan. A lot cover the etiquette that is so much a part of Japanese culture; or great places to visit such as onsen and sacred shrines; or how to buy shinkansen (bullet train) tickets, to name but a few topics. But for us, these ten simple things are what we’d recommend to any first-time traveller to Japan.
Kyushu is the most southerly of Japan’s four main islands. It is renowned for its warm climate, volcanoes, onsen (hot springs), fascinating history and excellent food; all good reasons to visit. In late August/early September 2023 we did a 10-day circuit around Kyushu. We travelled with our sons, Alex and Zac, so it was a real family affair. Here is our journey – hopefully it will inspire a visit of your own.
We first visited Haw Par Villa (HPV) in December 2014. It is a well-known attraction amongst local Singaporeans but doesn’t get a lot of attention in tourist literature aimed at overseas visitors. It is, for want of a better term, a Chinese Culture and Mythology theme park. In 2014 we described it as Asia’s weirdest theme park. In early 2023 we were back in Singapore and decided to revisit HPV to see how it had fared over the intervening years.
In February 2023 we did a 10 day trip to the Lao Democratic Peoples Republic (Laos). As it was a relatively short visit, we chose to go to just three locations: Vientiane (the capital), Phonsavan (the home of the evocatively named Plain of Jars), and Luang Prabang (the previous royal capital and UNESCO listed World Heritage city). Ten days is far too short to do this fascinating and diverse country justice, but if you only have time for a brief stay, here are three places worth including on your itinerary.
The city of Suzhou, 50 kms to the west of Shanghai, is famous for its canals and gardens, having earned the moniker of “Venice of the East”. The region around Suzhou has a network of canals and attractive canal towns, all of which date back to the building of the Grand Canal, the world’s longest canal, which commenced construction in the 5th century BCE. We spent a few days in the region in September 2019 and found it both a pleasant and interesting part of the country. Here are a few highlights.
This time last year, six months or so before the world was hit with the COVID 19 pandemic, we visited Mongolia for a month. Most of our time was spent out of the capital Ulaanbataar, but the trip necessitated that we transit through the city on several occasions. We’d read less than flattering reviews about Ulaanbataar. However, we decided to give the city a chance and decide for ourselves what we thought of it. The result was that we were pleasantly surprised. So, if you find yourself in the city many locals refer to simply as “UB” here are a few options for how to spend a couple of days.
We knew little about the Philippines before we decided to go. From a bit of research we learned about the 2,000 year old UNESCO World Heritage listed rice terraces of Northern Luzon. Also, in this region are extensive cave systems, a number of tribal groups with their own distinctive languages and cultures, and nearby is the city of Vigan, Asia’s best preserved example of Spanish Colonial rule. We decided that Northern Luzon was worth a visit. Here’s what we found.
In September 2019 we spent a month in China. We were surprised at the relatively small number of independent foreign travellers we met along the way. There seems to be a view held by many in the West, that China is a difficult country in which to travel as an independent traveller, unless you can speak Chinese. It’s true that there are a few tricky aspects to navigating China, but with a bit of pre-planning, and a relaxed attitude, these can be either overcome or ignored. Overall China is a safe and fairly easy place to visit on your own. Here are a few things we identified before going or learned along the way which made our life on the road easier.
Most first time Western tourists to China will follow a well-trodden path – to Beijing for the Great Wall of China and the Forbidden City, Xian for the Terracotta Warriors, the Bund in Shanghai, a Yangxi River cruise, and a visit to the karst mountain region in the south around Yangshao. There’s nothing wrong with this itinerary. All of these are impressive and well worth the effort to see, but there is a lot more to China than just these big ticket attractions. On a month’s visit to China we also took the time to go to some lesser known cities and were rewarded for the effort. Here are three that we think you might want to add to your China program.
Australia and the Pacific
In July 2024 I was in Melbourne for a State of Origin match at the MCG. The next day I decided to check out some of Melbourne’s renowned arcades and lanes. Well known for colourful graffiti and the innumerable cafes and eateries, they are amongst the city’s most popular tourist attractions.
Along with my friend Graeme, we downloaded a map produced by the City of Melbourne entitled Melbourne Walks: Arcades and Lanes. This provides an interesting 2.5 km route. Here’s what we found.
It used to be said that Australia lacked the sort of classic megafauna dinosaurs found in other parts of the world. But in recent decades that myth has been put to rest. And there is no better place to see many of Australia’s most impressive dinosaur fossils than outback Queensland’s Dinosaur Trail. We decided to check it out for ourselves on a recent visit to the region. After all who doesn’t love a dinosaur?
We recently did a 10-day trip from Adelaide to Alice Springs. It was an opportunity to visit the natural wonders of Uluru and Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), and to experience a little bit of the Australian Outback. Its vastness means that you can spend months exploring it and barely scratch the surface. And indeed, we saw many people in extensively kitted out four-wheel drive vehicles who were doing this. But if you have limited time, don’t own a 4x4, and just want a taste of the outback, this post will hopefully give you some good ideas.
Queensland’s Sunshine Coast starts just north of Brisbane at Bribie Island and extends 100 kms to the Cooloola Coast. There are 25 or so National Parks and reserves in the region. The possibilities for walking are enormous. On a short visit to the area we managed to fit in two short walks – one in the hinterland around the base of one of the Glass House Mountains and the other a coastal walk in Noosa National Park with great views and a swim at the finish.
If you’ve read our previous post “Vanuatu Diary” you’ll know that we only had a little over a week in the country, visiting just two islands – Efate and Tanna. This hardly makes us equipped to qualify as experts on Vanuatu, a nation of over 80 islands.
However, we did pick up a few things along the way that some might find helpful when visiting Vanuatu. Here is our modest list of travellers’ tips.
In late June/early July 2018 we had a two and a half week holiday to Vanuatu planned. This would be our first visit to this small Pacific nation. But just a week or so into the trip we had to return to Australia due to an unexpected serious illness of a close family member. However, even this brief contact left us with some good experiences and lasting impressions of the country and the people we met. Here is a short diary of our Vanuatu journey.
The purpose of this post is to provide overseas visitors with a sort of “Dummies Guide to Football in Australia”. Should you be coming to Australia during the football season (March to the end of September) you’ll have the opportunity to partake in one or more of our national sporting obsessions – footy, in its various guises. Yes, we have four footy codes!
The impetus for this was a recent trip to Melbourne with a friend for a footy fix. And whether it’s football or just about any other sporting pursuit you care to name, the best place in Australia to see it is Melbourne. Melbournians love their sport and turn out in big numbers to support their favourite team, especially in AFL
We wanted to do a post about Sydney, where we both grew up. The result is this post which covers some of our favourite Sydney places. Most are very well known, hence the title “Sydney for Beginners” and provides an introduction to Sydney for the first-time visitor with limited time. But we’ve also included a few lesser known spots - hidden gems - that mostly only locals know about.
Lake Judd is an ancient glacier-formed lake in Tasmania’s Southwest National Park, with a spectacular back-drop of 600 metre high cliffs and views of Mt Anne, SW Tasmania’s highest peak. The 16 km day walk to the lake and back traverses button grass plains peppered with pink quartzite outcrops. As the track ascends the view behind is of Lake Pedder and surrounding peaks. The first 7 kms of the 8 kms to the lake is on part of the renowned, multi-day Mt Anne Circuit Walk. We did the Lake Judd walk in January 2024. Here’s what we found.
Mount Kate is a little visited peak in the Cradle Mountain – Lake St Clair National Park. It is not signposted but is a relatively easy 6 km return walk from Ronny Creek. It provides great views of Cradle Mountain, with a different perspective to most of the walking tracks in the area. It is a very worthwhile day walk. Here’s how we went about it.
Starting from the evocatively named ‘Edge of the World’, at the mouth of the Arthur River on Tasmania’s wild west coast, this beach walk takes you along a stretch of broad, white sand to a rocky point of great significance to Tasmania’s indigenous peoples. It’s an easy half day (4 – 5 hour) walk that gives a good feel for this dramatic, windswept coastline facing the Roaring Forties and the Southern Ocean.
In November 2017 we published a post describing the day walk to the famous southern Tasmanian big wave surfing spot of Shipstern Bluff aka Shippies. Four years on we’ve returned to Shippies to check out the upgrades to the walk that we’d heard had been done. This post describes these changes. The walk itself still takes four hours return following the same track. But there have been some nice improvements to amenities and signage in the intervening years.
Cape Surville is a little visited, but spectacular location on the Forestier Peninsula, on Tasmania’s east coast. A return walk of just under 6 kms features some dramatic high sea cliffs. The access road in is rough in parts and requires a four-wheel drive vehicle. We didn’t have one, but solved this problem by cycling the most difficult section on e-mountain bikes (EMTBs). Here’s how we did it.
Black Glen Falls is a series of five small waterfalls on the Lachlan River in southeast Tasmania. It sits inside Wellington Park, the reserve that covers most of kunanyi/Mt Wellington. The walk to the falls and back is a 4 kilometre return trip. Despite being less than an hour’s drive from home in Hobart I’d never been there before, so with regular walking companion Graeme, we went to check it out.
A “swallet’ is defined as an “underground stream”, also “an opening through which a stream disappears underground”. Tucked away in a corner of Mt Field National Park in Southern Tasmania is Growling Swallet. It is a place where the Junee River disappears underground through a large cave. It is said that when the river is running hard it positively growls. I’d never heard of this place until recently when a friend mentioned it. We decided to check it out. Here’s what we found.
Being the proud owners of Frida, the heeler-border collie cross rescue dog, means that walks in national parks are off the menu when we want to take Frida with us. North East Tasmania doesn’t have a lot of territory classified as national parks, but it does have plenty of good, short walks within reserves and state forests where dogs are permitted. We decided to check out a few of these. Here are four good dog-friendly short walks in the region.
Waratah is a small town in North West Tasmania. The town was built to support a tin mine at nearby Mt Bischoff. It was constructed on top of a waterfall so that the diverted water could be used for mining operations. On my recent first-time visit to Waratah, I was keen to see the town waterfall. While there we took the opportunity to visit two other waterfalls in the area and a couple of other sites of interest.
The township of Richmond is one of Tasmania’s oldest settlements. Richmond was a convict station and military post. It is home to Australia’s oldest bridge built in 1823 by convicts. Just thirty minutes’ drive from the centre of Hobart, Richmond is an excellent day trip for anyone visiting the south of the state. In this post we describe the Richmond Heritage Walk as recommended by Clarence Council which we did recently.
The Clarence Coastal Trail makes it possible to walk from Cremorne to Seven Mile Beach, a distance of around 13.5kms. It is an attractive and satisfying walk. You can leave or join at several places or just do a chosen section. We have broken the walk down into two sections: Cremorne to Roches Beach (this post) and Roches Beach to Seven Mile Beach (previous post).. Read on if you want to know more.
In the southern suburbs of Hobart lies the municipality of Kingborough. Within this region there are an abundance of walking opportunities, including a lot of good short walks. Along with friend Jillian I decided to combine two creek walks which we had not previously done – Nierinna Creek Track and Margate Creek Track. The walk notes and maps on the council web page showed how these two walks could be easily joined into one longer walk.
The Hobart Rivulet was critically important to 19th century colonial Hobart both as it’s water supply and for a number of industrial purposes. Today the 2.7 km walk beside the rivulet which wends through the suburb of South Hobart provides many insights into the city’s past. It also affords excellent views of kunanyi/Mt Wellington before concluding at the Cascade Brewery, Australia’s oldest brewery, established 1824.
Kelly Basin is on the south east side of Macquarie Harbour on Tasmania’s west coast. The towns of East and West Pillinger once stood on Kelly Basin and had a population of over 1000. East Pillinger was established as a port for the North Mount Lyell Mining Company’s rail line which ran from Queenstown bringing copper to be exported.. The town was abandoned in 1924 after the rival Mount Lyell Mining Company took over North Mount Lyell Mining. Today there are still remnants of the port town of East Pillinger to be explored. This includes brick kilns, parts of buildings, giant metal boilers and the old wharf. We wanted to see for ourselves so headed off from Queenstown to do the half day walk.
The term Tarkine or takayna, its Aboriginal name, is used to describe much of north west Tasmania. It is a region of rainforests and rivers, imposing mountains and wild coastlines. It is currently unprotected. There are ongoing efforts by many people to have this remedied to protect the area for future generations. With regular walking companion Graeme, we chose two walks in the southern part of the Tarkine – the Huskisson River Rainforest Walk and Mt Murchison, one of the west’s highest peaks.
Many visitors to the Tasman Peninsula, on their way to the Port Arthur Historic Site, make a brief stopover at the Tessellated Pavement State Reserve at Eaglehawk Neck. They come to admire the unusual, geometric patterns in the coastal rock platform. From the Tessellated Pavement the view to the north features a small island adjacent to the shore. This is Clydes Island. Few bother to make the leisurely one kilometre walk along the beach and rocky shoreline to the island. We decided to have a closer look at Clydes Island and then to venture along the cliff-top trail that we’d heard continues beyond.
The Needles are a group of rocky spires that protrude from the landscape of south west Tasmania. The 2 – 3 hour return walk to the top-most Needle (1020m) takes you up a steepish trail with spectacular views unfolding as you ascend. From the top you have a 360 degree panorama of the SW Wilderness World Heritage Area. On a clear day this has to be one of Tassie’s most spectacular short wilderness walks.
When you book the Three Capes Track 4 day walk, in SE Tasmania, you are actually only getting two capes for your money – Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy. This isn’t to say that it isn’t a fabulous experience – it is. The trail takes you along some of Australia’s most spectacular coast and cliffs. But if you want your full complement of capes then you need do a separate additional day walk to nearby Cape Raoul. This post describes our recent visit to Cape Raoul, our first since new track work was done.
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Tasmania is full of places and attractions that don’t feature prominently in the tourist literature. In fact, some are so obscure that many locals don’t even know about them. This post describes a day walk we did to little known Bluff Canyon. In the spirit of Secret Tasmania, we don’t give too much detail about where and how to do the walk. There are no maps here. If you’re interested, you might need to do a bit of extra research.
The Monk Bay Circuit Walk is a 8.3km coastal walk within the Lime Bay State Reserve, Tasman Peninsula in south east Tasmania. It’s an easy 3 – 3.5 hour walk with constant views of the surrounding waterways.
The Tasman Peninsula is also home to the Port Arthur Historic Site, Australia’s premier colonial convict site. Close to Port Arthur are the remains of a large convict probation station established for the purposes of coal mining. Today there are well preserved ruins with good interpretative signs. The Historic Coal Mines site can easily be combined with the Monk Bay walk making for a varied and interesting day trip from Hobart. And it’s all free.
This post covers a walk in the south eastern end of Tasman National Park and involves part of the Three Capes Track. It is a long day walk taking in Mt Fortescue and, potentially, Cape Hauy before returning to the starting point at Fortescue Bay.
Arthurs Peak is in the Tasman National Park in Tasmania and is on the route of the recently opened and popular Three Capes Walk - a multi-day fee paying walk. Since the advent of the Three Capes Walk we were unclear as to whether it was still possible to walk to Arthurs Peak via an old track. We also wanted to clarify what the options were for overnight walking in the park for self-sufficient campers who were not paying to stay in the designated huts that are exclusively for paying walkers. This post sets out to provide answers these questions and describe the day walk we succeeded in doing to Arthurs Peak.
Lake St. Clair is at the southern end of Cradle Mountain – Lake St. Clair National Park. The car park and visitors centre are at Cynthia Bay. This is also the end point for people completing the Overland Track from north to south. From here there are a number of good day walks as well as longer walks. We decided to head out there for a long weekend, with a good weather forecast, to do a bit of exploring, including a walk and camping at Shadow Lake and to do the Mt Rufus Circuit.
The Mt Rogoona Circuit is a 25km circuit in the southern end of the Walls of Jerusalem National Park, Tasmania. It provides access to a less visited part of this increasingly popular national park. The circuit takes in spectacular views of rugged Mt Rogoona, some beautiful lakes and a couple of historic huts. There are a number of good campsites along the route and it is also a way to access the exotically named Never Never. Here is our experience of the walk.
The Roches Beach to Seven Mile Beach track is an easy, pleasant, short coastal walk with spectacular views. Located 22km east of Central Hobart, it is a 20 minute drive from town. The walk is 3.3km one way. You can start the walk from either end. If you want a longer walk you can start or finish at Lauderdale Canal rather than Roches, a total of 6km.
The Douglas Apsley National Park is on Tasmania’s East Coast, between the towns of St Marys and Bicheno. It gets its name from the park’s two main rivers. The Leeaberra Track runs the length of the park, which contains the largest remaining area of dry sclerophyll forest in Tasmania. It also has rivers, waterfalls, rugged rock formations and a variety of vegetation types.
With friend and long-time walking companion Graeme (who also has a dodgy knee) we decided to tackle the 2.5 day, 28 km walk. Here's our walk report.
In November 2017 we published a post describing the day walk to the famous southern Tasmanian big wave surfing spot of Shipstern Bluff aka Shippies. Four years on we’ve returned to Shippies to check out the upgrades to the walk that we’d heard had been done. This post describes these changes. The walk itself still takes four hours return following the same track. But there have been some nice improvements to amenities and signage in the intervening years.
It was a lazy, early spring Sunday morning and we wanted to get a bit of exercise. We settled on the Alum Cliffs track, which begins near Kingston Beach in Hobart’s southern suburbs. This is a 6 km return coastal walk with some good views of the river and cliffs. The starting point is Tyndall Beach, which is a dog-friendly beach on the northern side of Browns Rivulet across from Kingston Beach. Here is our report on the walk.
The Cape Hauy walk has some of the most spectacular coastal views in Australia and it can be done as a day trip from Hobart.
The Walls of Jerusalem in Tasmania's Central Highlands is a popular destination for a relatively easy overnight wilderness camping experience.
We spent three and a half months on a road trip around the US and Canada in the winter of 2017 (Jan to April). Before we went we couldn't find much specific info on road trippin' at this time of year so we just had to wing it. This post contains our tips on some things we did and items we took which made the experience a good one.