Our Travels in 2016/17
Who decided that only 18 year olds can have a gap year? Why not 58 year olds? Well, that's what we decided to do for 2016, to spend a full year on the road.
We flew to Santiago in early January 2016. Initially we travelled down south to Patagonia then gradually made our way through South America, the Caribbean, Central America, and Mexico by the end of 2016. The original plan was to arrive in the USA in late September and finish the trip in the US and Canada by Christmas. But we got stuck in Central America (pleasantly so - we loved it) and so, in order to visit North America we extended our travels until the end of June 2017. In total we were on the road for 18 months. Below are maps of where we went and a list of posts that were generated through the trip.
NB: Please forgive the messy maps - we haven't mastered Google Maps yet.
Map 1.
Map 1 covers the period from commencement, January 2016 to November 2016.
Map 2.
Map 2 Covers the period from November 2016 to April 2017.
Map 3.
Map 3 covers our European leg from April to the end of June 2017 and flight home.
Red or thick black line indicates route completed by flight.
Blue line indicates route completed on land (road or rail).
Green line indicates route completed by boat.
Note: This map may not display if using Windows Explorer. Please open site in Google Crome or Firefox.
Here's What Happened
January, February, March - Chile, Argentina & Uruguay
Argentinian Patagonia is a big place. It starts in the north around the pretty city of San Carlos de Bariloche and extends down to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego at the southern tip of South America and from the Andes to the Atlantic. It is a region that you can spend weeks, even months exploring.
With our more limited time we decided to focus on 3 of Patagonia's main attractions: El Calafate and the Perito Moreno Glacier; El Chalten and it's mountains, particularly Cerro Fitz Roy; and Bariloche and surrounds. Here's a bit about our experience.
A lot of older travellers assume that to visit Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia, particularly if you wish to do the world famous 'W' Walk, that you need to go in an organised group.
But we found that with a bit of planning you can successfully do the walk, travel at your own pace and save some money along the way. Here's our experience over 6 days in Torres del Paine.
We took a 2 week road trip from the capital Santiago to the port city of Puerto Montt 1,000kms to the south. Snow capped volcanoes, vast azure lakes, and great food and wine were just some of the highlights.
Santiago is an interesting and modern city with plenty to do. Here are 10 possibilities that won't cost a fortune.
April, May - Brazil, Ecuador & Colombia
We’ve taken two trips to South America. The first was in 2007/08 for 8 weeks with our then teenage sons, Alex and Zac. Cally and I returned in 2016 to fill in some of the gaps left after our first trip. This time we spent four and a half months visiting Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Ecuador, and Columbia. It was a fabulous experience. In this post we’ve chosen our favourite photos from our two trips. We hope you like them.
For decades Colombia has been known for drug cartels and civil war, but in recent years the security situation has dramatically improved and tourists are starting to arrive. We think that Colombia will become the next big thing in South American tourism over the next decade. We spent two weeks there and got a small taste of some of what Colombia has to offer.
We arrived in Ecuador less than 24 hours after the April 2016 earthquake which devastated much of the NW and coastal regions of Ecuador. We were initially unsure as to what to do. But once we received information locally it was clear that the Highland areas of the country were unaffected. We decided to continue with our plans to travel the Ecuadorian Highlands. Here is our experience.
In Best Of Brazil - Part 1 we visited the south of the country - Florianopolis, Curitiba and the state of Minas Gerais, which lies between Belo Horizonte and Rio de Janiero.
In Part 2 we start in Rio, head north to Salvador and finish our Brazilian trip in the Amazonian city of Manaus. Here's what happened.
We spent a month in Brazil. This was our second visit but we still felt that we'd barely scratched the surface of this fabulous country. Nevertheless, we were very happy with the choices we made and the places we visited. Here is Part 1 of our Best of Brazil.
Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina is a 1520 square km national park 400 kms to the west of the city of Salvador in Bahia state. It is famous for it's spectacular mountains, stunning waterfalls, limestone caves and thick forest. It attracts many Brazilian and international travellers who come to trek in the park.
We had 3 days/4 nights there and got a brief but very worthwhile taste of Chapada Diamantina. Here is a post about our trip there.
The Brazilian state of Minas Gerais lies between Belo Horizonte and Rio de Janiero. It is one of Brazil's most historically significant regions. Gold was discovered there in 1693 and this was followed by gem and diamond finds.
It's colonial legacy is still very accessible through towns such as Ouro Preto and Tiradentes. Some of Brazil's most impressive artworks are to be found in the region, particulalrly in it's historical churches. We were keen to visit the state and so we hired a car for the trip from Belo to Rio. Here is what we found.
June, July - The Caribbean
In 2016 we island hopped through the Caribbean. We started in the south, in the Dutch islands of Aruba and Curaçao and finished three months later in the north, in Jamaica and Cuba. In total we visited twenty one states and territories.
At this time, when COVID -19 still makes international travel virtually impossible, we’ve decided to revisit this trip via producing some posts with our favourite shots. We’ve divided this project into three parts: Southern Caribbean; Central Caribbean and Northern Caribbean. Here we present the Northern Caribbean. We hope you find it interesting.
In 2016 we island hopped through the Caribbean. We started in the south, in the Dutch islands of Aruba and Curaçao and finished three months later in the north, in Jamaica and Cuba. In total we visited twenty one states and territories.
At this time, when COVID -19 still makes international travel virtually impossible, we’ve decided to revisit this trip via producing some posts with our favourite shots. We’ve divided this project into three parts: Southern Caribbean; Central Caribbean and Northern Caribbean. Here we present the Central Caribbean. We hope you find it interesting.
In 2016 we island hopped through the Caribbean. We started in the south, in the Dutch islands of Aruba and Curaçao and finished three months later in the north, in Jamaica and Cuba. In total we visited twenty one states and territories.
At this time, when COVID -19 still makes international travel virtually impossible, we’ve decided to revisit this trip via producing some posts with our favourite shots. We’ve divided this project into three parts: Southern Caribbean; Central Caribbean and Northern Caribbean. Here we present the Southern Caribbean. We hope you find it interesting.
We travelled for nearly 3 months island hopping through the Caribbean and attempted to live on what we consider to be a mid-range budget i.e. $AUS300/$US230 per day for the two of us. That's all inclusive – transport, accommodation, meals and activities. Here's what we learned from our trip.
Reggae, rastafarians, rum and resorts. That's what comes to mind for most people when you mention Jamaica. We had a stay of just over a week and found that all these things were present, but we also found the Jamaican people to be some of the friendliest and most welcoming we've ever met. If you have limited time and want a couple of ideas for things to do here are 5 activities that are done out of the three biggest towns: Kingston, Ocho Rios and Montego Bay.
Parque Nacional Los Haitieses is a 1375 sq. km park in the NE of the Dominican Republic. The park's northern border is the Bahia de Samana which opens to the Atlantic. Small limestone karst mountains, 30 – 50m high fringe much of the coast. It's an unusual place that we were keen to visit. So we took a day trip to the park, which wasn't quite what we'd hoped for. Here's what happened.
To North Americans Puerto Rico is their backyard. It has the busiest cruise port in the Caribbean in San Juan, the capital. Puerto Rico (PR) receives over 2 million visitors a year. But to Australians it is the other side of the world, it is somewhere we hear little about and so it is high on our “exotic places to visit” list.
Knowing that it is such a popular tourist destination meant that we approached our visit with some concern that it might be 'too popular' to the point of tackiness, but we needn’t have worried. We spent a week in PR splitting our time between the two biggest cities, San Juan and Ponce and both were well worth taking the time to visit. Here's what we found.
Both the British and US Virgin Islands are popular holiday destinations with people from north America and Europe and they have a reputation for being expensive for accommodation. But you can find mid-range guesthouses and hotels on both sets of islands and you can visit the classic, but pricey destinations such as Virgin Gorda and St John, as day trips from the less exotic capitals of Road Town and Charlotte Amarlie. Here are four great days out that we had in the Virgin Islands.
The island of Saint Martin/Sint Maarten is written this way, with two names, because it is an island shared by two cultures, two nations, France and the Netherlands. Each half of the island has a quite different feel to the other. The Dutch half is resort central, where big is beautiful, while the French section is much more low key and laid back. Both sides have their charms and so are worth a visit. Here is a bit about our time with each.
Quiz question: What's the highest point in the Netherlands. Answer: Mt Scenery on the island of Saba in the Dutch Antillies.
Describe Saba: tropical rainforest full of bird and other wildlife, steep dramatic peaks, quaint red and white uniformed towns, and the highest peak in the Netherlands. We decided to check out Saba for ourselves. Here's what we found.
August - Cuba
Karst mountains, caves, tobacco farms, and horse riding - rural Vinales is very different from the other places we've visited on our Cuban trip. Here is our 4th and final postcard from Cuba.
This Postcard from Cienfuegos, Cuba's third biggest city, known as the Pearl of the South, features some of our favourite images of this laid back town.
This Postcard from Havana features our favourite images from one of the World's most fascinating and engaging cities.
Much is written about Cuba nowadays as it is such a popular destination. The aim of this post is not to repeat what can be found elsewhere. What we have aimed for here is two things: (1) Our immediate impressions of Cuba having just spent 2 weeks in the country and (2) A few tips that we either found useful before we went or wished we'd known beforehand that might help to make your trip a little easier
September, October, November, December - Central America and Mexico
Maybe it’s just us, but we’d never heard of Guanajuato until recently. But having read that it was one of Mexico’s most picturesque towns, and it lay on our route from Mexico City to the country’s second biggest city, Guadalajara, we decided to check it out. As things transpired it turned out to be one of the most visually attractive and interesting colonial towns we’d visited in Latin America.
Tikal, the ancient Mayan city in Northern Guatemala is probably only surpassed by Chichen Itza on the “must see” list of Mayan archaeological sites. But how does it stack up against Monte Alban, the significant site of their neighbours, the Zapotecs of Southern Mexico? Here's what we thought.
We took a day trip from the small Guatemalan town of Lanquin to the nearby limestone caves and amazing natural pools of Semuc Champey. The day consisted of an awesome river cave experience, tubing down the river with beers in hand (provided mid stream by some enterprising locals), a hike to an impressive vantage point overlooking Semuc, and a well earned dip in the pools to finish the day. All in all one of our best days ever in Central America.
When we booked several nights’ accommodation in Oaxaca, Mexico for the Christmas period we were blissfully unaware that our arrival day, 23 December is one of the city’s biggest nights – the Noche de los Rábanos or Night of the Radishes. Every year on the night of 23 December displays of intricately carved giant radishes are displayed in the Zocalo (Central Plaza). Here's what we saw.
This post describes our trip from Punta Gorda in Southern Belize, via Livingston and Rio Dulce(Sweet River) in Guatemala to Copan Ruinas in Honduras. We had trouble getting clear, accurate information on transport options for some of this trip so thought it was worth retelling our experience here.
long the way we take a series of boat, bus and colectivos (small minivan collective taxis) to finally get to our destination, Copan Ruinas, Honduras's most important Mayan Archaeological site.
In 1982 I visited Belize with my mate Muz Paddison and we spent some idyllic days on the small island of Caye Caulker, just off the coast of Belize City. There were few travellers and little in the way of tourist amenity and infrastructure back then. It really felt like an unknown tropical paradise.
Fast forward 35 years and things are very different now. Tourism is Belize's number one industry and Caye Caulker is in the frontline. Needless to say the Caye Caulker of 2016 is almost unrecognizable from that of 1982. Here's what we found.
Lamanai is a Mayan archaeological site in Northern Belize. It was occupied for over three thousand years from 1500 BC until the 19th Century AD. A boat trip up the New River from Orange Walk Town is the preferred method for accessing Lamanai, which is what we chose to do. There are only a small number of temples and other buildongs that can be visited as most of the 700 plus strutures remain buried under thick jungle. Nevertheless we found Lamanai an excellent choice for a day trip.
The Mayan civilization flourished for over 2,000 years from the appearance of the first Mayan cities around 750BC to the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century. Their legacy is vast and impressive. There is no better place to see it than the Mexican Yucatan. This post covers four of the most famous sites in the Yucatan, including Chichen Itza.
Lake Atitlan is a spectacular, volcano rimmed lake in the Guatemalan Highlands. Two Mayan peoples, the Kaqchiquel and Tz'utujil, live around the lake and their colourful traditional costumes, which are worn all the time, are one of the aspects that gives Lake Atitlan a special feel. We had a wonderful short visit to the lake which included a day trip to two villages. Here'e what happened.
Antigua, a former colonial capital of Guatemala, is the country's most visited tourist destination. It is surrounded by three towering volcanoes, each over 3700 metres. It has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site due to it's magnificent churches and other colonial buildings, some restored and others in splendid collapse due to the many earthquakes which have impacted it over the centuries. Join us on a walking tour of this fascinating city.
January, February, March, April - USA and Canada
We spent three and a half months on a road trip around the US and Canada in the winter of 2017 (Jan to April). Before we went we couldn't find much specific info on road trippin' at this time of year so we just had to wing it. This post contains our tips on some things we did and items we took which made the experience a good one.
In 1763, after the British had defeated the French to take control of what is today Canada they ceded a small archipelago of islands off the Newfoundland coast to France. Today St Pierre et Miquelon remains a little piece of France in North America. It is a self-governing overseas territory of 7,000 people. The currency is the euro, the language is French and the baguettes are authentic. I'd always wanted to visit since I learned about it as a boy. Here is my pilmgrimage to St Pierre et Miquelon.
We had a hire car booked for a week starting and ending in Vancouver, and we’d both always wanted to see the Canadian Rockies, so it was a no-brainer as to where we were going to head when we arrived on Canada’s west coast. The only problem being that it was the first week of April, and the ski season was in full flight so snow and ice were potentially going to be a problem.
But, we decided to give it a crack and see if we could reach some of the major attractions such as Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper.
So, you’ve only got one day in Seattle. It’s definitely not enough, but if that’s the predicament you find yourself in, here’s a plan for how to make the most of your one day.
The Alaskan Maritime Highway (AMH) is a system of ferries that connect 14 coastal towns on the Alaskan Panhandle (SE Alaska) with each other and the rest of the US via the port of Bellingham just north of Seattle, Washington. The ferries carry cars and pedestrian passengers.
We wanted to see this part of Alaska and decided to use the AMH ferries to get around. These are cheaper than cruises and they run all year around, while the cruises don’t. We did the trip in March 2017. Here's what happened.
A long held ambition of Cally's was to see "The Lights" of the Polar Regions, either Southern (Aurora Australis) or Northern (Aurora Borealis). With no luck over the years with seeing the Southern Lights we went in search of their northern counterparts in Alaska. Here's how we went.
This post covers a road trip we did over four days in early March 2017 from Portland, Oregon to San Francisco, California down the Pacific coast.
We’d spent a lot of time recently on interstate highways travelling across the country, so we wanted slow it down and cruise down the coast.
We spent a spectacular day touring Yellowstone National Park in a snowcoach in winter. It was a blast. See for yourself.
Many of us have heard of the Badlands but what are they and where are they? Well, they’re in the western part of South Dakota near the Wyoming border. The name maco sica (badland) was originally given by Native Americans due to the strangeness of the landscape with it’s weird spires, mounds and walls. What we had read sounded interesting so we decided to check it out and to see what else was in the area.
First time in New York? Not sure what to choose from the huge range possibilities for things to do and places to visit? And you’ve only got three days.
Here's how we tackled this challenge.
May, June - Europe
In September 2024 we spent three weeks travelling around Georgia, a country we’d been wanting to visit for some time. What did we know about Georgia before going there? We knew that Georgia is a small country sitting to the south of the Caucasus Mountains; that it had a history of winemaking going back thousands of years; that it was one of the first nations to declare Christianity as the state religion; and that it had been invaded many times by its much larger neighbours. But the Georgian people and their culture and traditions had remained resilient. We wanted to know more. Here’s what we found.
Baku, Azerbaijan’s capital, is a city of 2.3 million, which sits on the Caspian Sea. In Baku towering, eye-catching 21st century skyscrapers provide a radically contrasting backdrop to medieval alleyways and ancient fortifications. Sounds interesting? We thought so too, so we arranged to spend a few days there to see it for ourselves.
Dodgy Knees recently published a post from Ken’s brother Brett and wife Linda on their trip in 2018 to Chefchaouen – Morocco’s Blue City. On the same trip they also visited the island of Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands. Despite its reputation as a tourist hotspot they found it to be remarkably uncrowded and relaxing. Definitely recommended. Here is their report.
In April 2013 we did a three week road trip around the Iberian Peninsula - Spain and Portugal. Starting in Madrid we did a clockwise circuit including Cordoba, Grenada, Seville, Lisbon, Porto, San Sebastian, and Barcelona.
Three weeks was barely enough time to scratch the surface. We loved every minute and vowed to return one day. In the spirit of nostalgia here are some of our favourite images from that trip.
The Greek island of Ikaria sits in the northern Aegean Sea close to the Turkish coast. It doesn’t have the profile of a Santorini, Mykonos or a Crete. The advantage of this, for travellers who venture there, is that it doesn’t have the big tourist numbers of its better-known brethren.
We spent a few very enjoyable days there in June 2017 with our friends Ron and Ellen, who were holidaying on the island. We knew nothing about Ikaria before we went, but discovered a wonderful destination full of great locations and experiences. If you get a chance to visit, here are a few possibilities to put on your list.
This post describes a road trip we did traveling through the Western Balkans, that is the region that sits on the Eastern Adriatic and Ionian Seas. We started in Dubrovnik, Croatia, and moved south through Montenegro and Albania before arriving on the Greek island of Corfu. The trip took two weeks and was made in glorious late Mediterranean spring sunshine, with temperatures from the mid 20’s to the low 30’s.
This pictorial post consists of some of our favourite shots taken while travelling around Italy during late May and early June 2017. On the trip we visited Trieste, Florence, Rome (chiefly the Vatican), Syracuse in Sicily and Naples (including Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast).
The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) is a walking trail that runs along the monumental cliffs of the Amalfi Coast in Italy. It is 6 kilometres of some of the most spectacular coastal scenery you’re likely to see anywhere in the world.
We were keen to do the walk, which takes 2 – 3 hours, and to do it as a day trip from Naples where we were based. This post describes how we went about it and some comments on the walk.
This was our first visit to Malta. Ken’s dad, Don had moved there two years ago so our main motivation for the trip was to see him. We had just four days there but learned a lot about this small and fascinating island nation in that time. It has a very complex and interesting history along with a few quirky features that make it like no other Mediterranean destination.
Here are ten things we learned during our stay that helped to make it so enjoyable.
How can you be in Italy, yet not be in Italy? OK, so smarty pants people will immediately say “the Vatican”, and yes they are correct. But what about another country? What about tiny San Marino, embedded in the north east of Italy? It's full title is "The Most Serene Republic of San Marino". At only 61 square kms it’s one of Europe’s smallest nations. We felt that we just had to pay it a visit.
In the past Uruguay has generally not featured on many South American travellers' itineraries, particularly those with limited time where the focus tends to be on the continent's big attractions, such as Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, Rio, and Patagonia. But that is changing. Lonely Planet ranked it #8 in countries to visit in 2016 and tourists are increasingly discovering that Uruguay has a lot to offer. We spent two and a half weeks travelling from the North West of the country to the South East border with Brazil. Here is a bit about our experience.