We continue our 18 day classic tour of Mongolia. If you haven’t seen Part One click here.

Day 10 – Orkhon Waterfall

A relatively short drive had us arriving at our ger camp around 1.00 pm. After lunch we walked the 1 km to the Orkhon Waterfall, another of Mongolia’s top tourist icons.

After some choice photo ops at opposite the top of the falls we found a path down to the bottom.

We couldn’t resist the opportunity for a dip in the invigorating (i.e. cold) waters of the river that runs from the falls.

It was then back to camp for another Mongolian staple – mutton dumplings cooked in milk tea.

Day 11 – The Gobi Beckons

This was a long driving day across the steppes, with gradually less and less grass giving way to drier, desert-like conditions.

We eventually arrived late in the day at an isolated family-run ger in the north Gobi.

Watching the milking of the mares was a highlight to end the day.

Day 12 – Bayanzag (The Flaming Cliffs)

We left our isolated ger camp on the edge of the Gobi and headed for the remnants of a monastery destroyed in the purges of the 30’s – Ongi Monastery. What had originally been 28 temples was little more than rubble. One small temple had been restored where 4 monks now reside.

We climbed to the hill behind the monastery site to get a better view.

Another lunch stop in the middle of nowhere.

Followed by a fabulous view of a distant camel train.

We continued on to Bayanzag – the Flaming Cliffs. We drove out to the Flaming Cliffs to enjoy the sunset and get the gist as to how the cliffs get their name.

We climbed to the top.

It was well worthwhile. An impressive sight.

the flaming cliffs at sunset. that’s cal out on the point.

Home was a larger tourist ger camp with showers and a rotunda beside a bizarre turtle-shaped restaurant where we could enjoy a cleansing ale to end the day.

Day 13 – Khongoryn Els – Massive Sand Dune

A 4 hour drive in the morning saw us arrive at our ger camp near the Khongoryn Els Sand dune around lunchtime.

The sand dune is over 100 kms long and 12 kms wide. The last hour of the drive had been within sight of the dune. A truly impressive spectacle.

The afternoon’s program included a one hour camel ride. As it happened the family that ran our ger camp also provided the camel ride.

It feels a long way to the ground once you’re up.

No need for reigns, just hang onto the front hump.

Having survived the camel ride, the evening’s activity involved climbing a 300m high dune for the sunset.

To say that it was hard going is an understatement.

tourists making their way to the top of the huge dune for sunset

There were a couple of hundred other folk puffing and panting their way to the top.

The soft sand and the 45 degree angle made it difficult going.

But the view from the top was worth the effort.

Day 14 – Yolyn Am (Vulture’s Mouth) Gorge

After a 5 hour drive we arrived at Yolyn Am Nature Reserve, which is named after the rare bearded vultures who live in the park. We spent a few minutes at the small museum at the entrance to the reserve. It consisted mostly of stuffed versions of the various types of wildlife which inhabit the area.

It was then into the park proper for a walk through the gorge.

Dramatic cliffs rose on both sides.

We were hoping to spot something large and horned, such as an ibex, but the best we got we regular sightings of the gorges most prolific occupants the pikas – members of the rodent family.

Given that the cool, protected canyon is quite an anomaly in the Gobi, it makes it a very popular tourist spot. There were lots of people enjoying the walk.

There was no particular destination in mind, so after an hour’s walking we turned and returned by the same path.

It was then to our ger camp for a relaxing evening and a couple of shots of Chinggis Khaan vodka – surprisingly good.

Day 15 – Pete’s Birthday

A paved road! Yes, we actually got to drive on a paved road for several hours to the regional capital Dalanzadgad, the capital of Omnogovi (South Gobi) province. We spent some time there, getting provisions for the coming days and even visiting a café for lattes.

Having completed our chores, we drove to our ger camp near a region famous for a geological formation known as the White Stupa (Tsagaan Suvarga). Similar to Flaming Cliffs, White Stupa is a 400m wide area of steep, sandy cliffs, with red, orange, yellow and white sands.

The late afternoon is the best time to visit for photo opportunities.

Back at our ger camp for dinner Degi and Baagii revealed the secret birthday meal they had planned for Pete.

a quiet beer in the afternoon - little did he know what was planned for the evening

It included home made pizzas and beers. And a lavish chocolate birthday cake, complete with candles and a small firework display, purchased surreptitiously in Dalanzadgad. And a bit more Chinggis Khaan vodka.

What a great night.

Day 16 – Baga Gazriin Stone Massif.

With the long driving days we had found that the landscape would stay the same for considerable distances – be it endless kilometres across the steppe grasslands or long miles of dry Gobi desert. But every now and then Mongolia will dish up a surprise, like Yoly Am or Orkhon Waterfall or Khogoryn Els Sand dune. In today’s case it was the unusual rocky landscape of Baga Gazriin Stone Massif.

In parts it was like a miniature version of Australia’s Bungle Bungle Range (google it if you’re not familiar with it).

We enjoyed wandering the region snapping away at the strange rock formations.

We’d also learned that it was a common custom of Mongolians to build rock cairns in favoured locations, and this spot was certainly a cairn building favourite.

We also visited the ruins of another monastery destroyed during the purges.

It looked like it would’ve been a nice, sheltered oasis form the heat of the Gobi back in its day.

It was then on to our next family-run ger camp, complete with welcome goat milk tea and curd snacks. For dinner that night another Mongolian specialty, fried horse meat dumplings. Very lean meat and quite tasty.

Day 17 – We Meet the Big Fella – Chinggis Khaan

If you were asked “what is the world’s largest equestrian statue” what would you say? Well, as all Mongolians will tell you, it’s the enormous statue of Chinggis Khaan which sits 50 km to the east of UB and is 40 metres high and blindingly shiny silver.

The entrance foyer of the visitors centre beneath the statue also houses an enormous Mongolian boot.

who can’t resist a giant book selfie dressed like mongol royalty?

We also checked out the museum therein before ascending the stairs to pop out on his horse’s head. You really get face to face with CK from here.

Having quenched our thirst for massive statues we headed off to nearby Terelj National Park. In parts it felt very European in its look – maybe Germany or Switzerland.

The main sights we were to visit were the aptly named Turtle Rock.

And an impressive Monastery sitting high on a hill with sweeping views of the valley and national park below.

The lengthy walk up to the monastery is accompanied by various pieces of Buddhist philosophy and advice.

Copy of Watch out for pickpockets wearing suits and ties

It was then to our last family-run ger for the trip. It was a small operation and we were the only guests.

As this was our last night together a special meal was planned – a Mongolian barbeque. This involves heating rocks then placing them in a giant pot on top of cuts of meat. Water is added and a large array of vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, onions, garlic and cabbage. A lid is put on top and weighted and the whole thing heated until cooked.

It was delicious and clearly an effective way to cook.

Day 18 – The end

After breakfast we drove the relatively short distance back to UB. Uuna met us and even provided free accommodation for that night in an apartment they rent just for their guests. We appreciated this extra generosity. We said our farewells and thank yous to Degi and Baagii. They had both been fabulous. We couldn’t have asked for better service or more enjoyable company.

This was a great experience and one we’d highly recommend.

Ken and Cally

PS Thanks to Pete for the use of many of his photos and for being great company on our Mongolian adventure.

End Note

We came across Man of Millenium in the Lonely Planet travellers’ forum Thorntree, where it had been recommended a couple of times. We checked out their website (link here) and compared their trips and costs to others we’d researched. Unike some other companies we’d looked at their prices were stated up front with a good description of what was covered and what was not. We decided to make contact with them. The owner Uuna was quick to get back to us once we’d emailed our enquiry. Uuna’s English is good and we found the response professional and clear. We also wanted to make sure that we used a locally owned tour company so it would benefit Mongolians. We decided to use MoM’s services, and this turned out to be a good decision. The trip was excellent. Degi was a fantastic guide, very hard working and also great company. Baagii was a very knowledgeable and experienced driver. We could never have found our way around the country on our own. All in all a very enjoyable experience. We highly recommend MoM.

Full Trip Map

Because roads are often little more than tracks in Mongolia Google Maps could not find road routes between some locations so we have just added the places we stayed each night to the map. Start at Ulaan Bataar and head anticlockwise to the north (Lake Khuvsgoil), then south all the way to the South Gobi before heading back to UB.