Introduction

In July 2024 I was in Melbourne for the State of Origin 2 Rugby League match at the MCG. The next day, with the afterglow of a great NSW win over Queensland still in the air, I decided to check out some of Melbourne’s renowned arcades and lanes.

Well known for colourful graffiti and the innumerable cafes and eateries, they are amongst the city’s most popular tourist attractions.

Along with my friend Graeme, we downloaded a map produced by the City of Melbourne entitled Melbourne Walks: Arcades and Lanes. This provides an interesting 2.5 km route starting from centrally located Federation Square. Click here to access the map.

Here’s what we found.

Prior to Starting the Walk

Heading into town from our digs in East Melbourne we passed the Duke of Wellington Hotel, Melbourne’s oldest hotel.

It was built in 1850 and has operated as a licensed hotel since 1853.

Across the road from Federation Square is Hosier Lane, one of Melbourne’s most colourful laneways, but it was not listed as part of our walk.

It’s worth adding if you plan to do the walk.

The Arcade and Lanes Walk

The stops on the walk are labelled here as per the City of Melbourne map.

1. Federation Square

The walk starts at Federation Square in Flinders Street, home of the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI), the Koorie Heritage Trust, and the Ian Potter Centre: National Gallery of Victoria, Australia.

2. ‘Under the Clocks’

Across the road from Fed Square is Melbourne’s traditional meeting place – under the clocks on the steps in front of Flinders Street Station.

3. Flinders Street Station

In many ways Flinders Street Station is the most recognized symbol of the city.

4. Degraves Street

We crossed Flinders Street, passed by St Paul’s Cathedral, and arrived at the entrance to Degraves Street.

Degraves Street is home to many cafes.

5. Majorca Building

Having walked Degraves Street, crossed Flinders Lane, we passed the entrance to the stylish 1920’s Majorca Building, beside the entrance to our next laneway, Centre Place.

6. Centre Place

After passing many more cafés and restaurants, we decided it was time for a coffee.

Despite the chilliness of the morning there were many people sitting outdoors, seemingly impervious to the cold.

7. Centre Way

At the end of Centre Place is the 1913 built Centre Way Building.

8. Block Arcade

The next location we came to was the 19th century Block Arcade.

Its mosaic floors are an outstanding feature.

There are yet more eateries in the slightly more salubrious surroundings.

With lots of specialty shops.

9. Block Place

Yet more outdoor cafes and restaurants.

10. Royal Arcade

Block Place leads through to our next location, Royal Arcade.

Dating from 1869 this is Australia’s oldest shopping arcade.

11. Gog and Magog

Just inside the Little Collins Street entrance to Royal Arcade turn around and look up to see the surprising wooden statues of Gog and Magog.

These mythological giants from Ancient Briton, have struck their bells on the hour since 1892.

12. Bourke Street Mall

We emerged from the Royal Arcade onto the Bourke Street Mall, where pedestrians and trams mingle.

13. The Public Purse

In front of the GPO Building is a quirky little sculpture called The Public Purse.

14. Underground Public Toilets

Why are public toilets on the tour? Well, apart from needing a visit to one after all those coffee stops, they’re included for their historical significance, dating back to 1910 (men) and 1927 (women). Not sure what the ladies did for those 17 years.

A Diversion

With Graeme’s local knowledge of Melbourne, he suggested we duck down a tight alley behind the GPO.

Despite the squeeze people had managed to shoe-horn in some small restaurants.

We made our way to Melbourne Central.

And inside we navigated to Shot Tower Square, where a late 19th century tower used for making lead shot has been incorporated into a modern shopping complex.

Here we found a giant fob watch.

And as luck would have it, we arrived just in time for its 12-noon musical performance.

15. Little Bourke Street

We then backtracked to Little Bourke Street, famous for its multitude of Asian restaurants.

16. Niagara Lane

We passed along Niagara Lane with its 1880’s warehouses.

17. Lonsdale Street

We took a short link down Lonsdale Street.

18. Hardware Lane

Then entered the well-known Hardware Lane.

Here, again, are many alfresco dining establishments.

19. Dynon’s Building

This is a set of four warehouses on the right-hand side of the lane.

20. Hardware House

Built in the 1920’s, this structure gives the lane its name.

21. Galleria Plaza

Crossing Bourke Street we entered Galleria Plaza.

22. Little Collins Street

We turned left on Little Collins Street and walked to Howey Place.

23. Howey Place

Howey Place was part of Cole’s Book Arcade, reputed to be the biggest bookshop in the world in late 19th and early 20th centuries.

24. Capital Arcade

This arcade leads to Capital House which was opened in 1924 and was designed by Walter Burleigh Griffin, the architect of Canberra.

25. Capital Theatre

This old theatre is now part of the RMIT University campus.

26. Manchester Unity Arcade

Yet another historic arcade.

27. Manchester Lane

After crossing Collins Street, the route goes up Manchester Lane then on to Flinders Lane.

28. Flinders Lane

The building works in Flinders Lane meant that we had to do a walk around.

29. Scott Alley and 30. Port Phillip Arcade

With the building works blocking easy access to these sites, we simply walked down Swanston Street to Young and Jackson’s Hotel.

31. Young and Jackson’s Hotel

This hotel, on the corner of Swanston and Flinders Street, has operated for over 100 years.

32. Chloe

Young and Jackson’s most famous ‘occupant’ is Chloe.

This famous nude portrait was painted in 1875 by French artist Jules Lefebvre. It has hung in the hotel since 1909.

The Finish

Thus, having visited Chloe for a quick beer, we finished the walk across the road at Federation Square.

A Few Extras

Just in case you find yourself in Melbourne with a few hours to spare here are a few more things you can consider doing which are all close to the walk described above.

ACDC Lane

Five minutes’ walk from Fed Square, coming off Flinders Lane, is ACDC Lane.

Named in honour of arguably Australia’s most successful band ACDC, this colourful lane has a number of ACDC motifs as well as other street art.

Ned Kelly’s Armour

Did you know that the armour of famed/infamous Australian bushranger Ned Kelly, that he wore at the Glenrowan show down in 1880, is on display at the State Library of Victoria? No, neither did we.

But there it is, and it’s free to view.

The SLV is on Swanston Street.

Melbourne Museum

A short walk from the library is Melbourne Museum. Here there is lots to see.

We were lucky to jag a special, time limited exhibition about a near complete Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton found in South Dakota, USA, named Victoria.

It’s worth checking out their website to see what’s on if you’re thinking of visiting.

Click here for the Museum’s website.

St Kilda

Time for a change of scenery? The bayside suburb of St Kilda is a short tram ride from the CBD. We made our first stop Acland Street, long famed for its fabulous cake shops.

And this reputation is still current. We indulged.

Needing a walk to try to counter the dietary impact of a large vanilla slice we headed for the Esplanade on the waterfront. Stopping off at a local public convenience we heard cries fo help coming from the disabled toilet. The lock had broken and the chap inside was starting to panic.

Unable to get the door open we calmed him down with reassuring words of support and promptly called 000. In quick time, and with siren blaring, the Victorian Fire and Rescue arrived and duly opened the door with some well-placed brute force.

The fellow was greatly relieved and went on his way. Our good deed for the day.

We then continued our stroll along the Esplanade, checking out St Kilda Pier.

Conclusion

The Arcades and Lanes Walk turned out to be an interesting and economical way to spend half a day.

You not only get a bit of exercise, but you also get a dose of Melbourne history, and the only costs are whatever you choose to spend at the many tempting cafes, restaurants and bars along the way.